The last morning in Split, we braved the torrential rainstorm for the 25 minute walk down where we’d catch the ferry to Hvar. [sidenote: the streets in Split can be quite slippery when wet – flip-flops plus slippery stones leads to massive slipping and sliding action] With a weather forecast of rain, rain, and more rain, we sped away from Split towards Hvar and somehow left the rainstorms and grayness behind. We were welcomed to Hvar with sun and clear blue skies. The island averages over 2,700 hours of sunshine per year, so it’s not surprising that it promotes itself as the “sunniest spot in Europe.”
It could be that all the guide books chalked it up as overly touristy and expensive – even Rick Steves recommended spending just a day – but we hands down LOVED Hvar. We spent two blissful days in Hvar – swimming in the ocean, sunning on the rocks, unsuccessfully cheering on the USA against Belgium, exploring the fortress, and just being.
Once we dropped the stuff off at our airbnb, which was literally 50 feet from the water, we grabbed a bite to eat at “our” corner restaurant: Buffet Pizzeria Bepo. The prices were quite reasonable, the Bolognese pizza was delicious, and being right there on the water, the view can’t be beat.
Once we were sufficiently sated, we headed down to try and catch some of the afternoon sun. Bre and I took the easy route the first day and grabbed some beach chairs (for a fee). The boys scrambled into the water and swam up the coast to scope out spots for the next day. The swim must have tuckered Jared out because his napping position was beyond ridiculous.
Our rented house was only a ten minute walk away from the main town area, so it was an easy stroll in to grab some dinner. Along the way we passed all the yachts docked in the harbor. Robin Leach’s famous line may have been looping in my head as I walked by. Champagne wishes and caviar dreams. Unfortunately we did not get a chance to buddy up to the elite and experience those wishes and dreams for ourselves. I guess there’s always next time.
The next day we forced ourselves to get up early so we could walk up to the Fortica (Trvdava Spanjola) before the day got too warm. If you want to get the best view of Hvar and it’s harbor, this is the place. Even if you do not actually go into the fortress, you can still get some solid views on the climb up.
By the time we made it back down into town we were all itching to wash the sweat and grim off – the water was calling our names. We threw on suits and trekked down to the location Jared and Dylan had scouted out the day before. We searched for the flattest rocks we could find, ditched our stuff, and dove in.
And then just like that, our two days in Hvar were over. I could have easily spent a week lounging around the island doing nothing but sunning, reading, swimming, and gelato-eating. On our last day we decided against visiting one of the other nearby islands or heading straight to Dubrovnik, instead opting to venture a little farther off the path. Decision made, we watched the sun go down and reveled in our last hours in Hvar.